Monday, June 20, 2011

Saint Guilhem le Desert

Yesterday I went to St. Guilhem le Desert, an Abbey which figures prominently in the book I just wrote.  It's one of the protected Historic Sites of France, much like la Cite in Carcassonne.  There were hundreds of people there--but that's getting ahead of myself.  I got directions from "Maps" on my iPad, which I dutifully wrote down.  But the directions said to go on A-6, which is a major road--and a toll road.  I decided it would be fun to take the "back roads" instead, so I tossed the directions in the passengers' seat and drove!  By following signs, first to Narbonne, then to Beziers, then to Montpellier, I actually DID find it, and a straight shot route, which my directions did not give. 

It's an 11th Century Abbey, though it was originally founded in 806 AD by Guilhem, first cousin to Charlemagne--Charlemagne apparently gave to Guilhem a relic of the one true cross, which is housed in a little reliquary box, and so the place became a "must see" on the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela  (the route called "Via Tolosana").  As a result of the relic, the place flourished and so it plays a role in the plot of my book.  Today, it's been restored/rebuilt in the places it was falling down (the French Revolution seems to have put a lot of historic places "out of business").  It was wonderful to be there, and to see the Cloisters area which my protagonists are VERY familiar with.  (The Cloister Pillars from the 1400s were "relocated" to the Museum of Fine Art in NYC, a fact which the French are still not happy about--this as a result of Napoleon's defeat in the early 1800s--lots of French artifacts were auctioned off, or just plain stolen, at that time).

The day was gorgeous, one of the crystal blue days with not a cloud in the sky, 76 degrees (F) and sunny, with just a hint of breeze.  So perfect for driving, and sight-seeing.  The government must make millions on a yearly basis just from the parking fees to St. Guilhem!  And it's always exciting to be going down a hillside with high stone walls on both sides, with a large car coming at you, and your rearview mirrors scraping the sides of the walls--well, within an inch or so, anyway.

I have included some photos of St. Guilhem le Desert, just so you can see a bit of what I saw. 
And, oh yes--the REAL triumph of the day.  I was running low on gasoline in my car, and needed to get some.  I stopped at two different pumps, and they wouldn't take my bankcard (which is a MasterCard debit card); on Sundays there are no cashiers at any gas stations.  So, I knew I would run out of gas if I didn't get some by the third pump I stopped at; I was able to speak with the nice man in line behind me, explained that I was American and that the machine wouldn't take my bankcard, and would he use HIS card if I paid him cash?  He did, I did, and I got home safely.  I think the real mark of knowing a language is, can you use it to solve a PROBLEM?  Yay for communication!
Cloisters of the Abbey
 Inside the main sanctuary
 The original Abbey on top of a mountain!
More cloisters--the art of building those arches is practically a lost art now.

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